Monday, June 09, 2008

Easy Ways to Ruin a Great Project

A friend of mine and I were talking over the weekend. She's also a sewer. She lives in another state and we don't get to chat very often. We were talking about our sewing projects and some we had seen online recently. At one point she said in an exasperated tone, "It drives me crazy when I see people make good garments with great fabrics, but ruin the whole thing by using cheap interfacing!"

I had to agree with her. And I got thinking. There are some really easy ways to ruin a great project. And you know what? I've committed pretty much each one. So here, for your reading pleasure, is my list. Learn from my mistakes

Ann's Foolproof Ways to Totally Screw Up an Otherwise Great Sewing Project
  • Buttons: Buy the cheapest ones you can find whenever you find them on sale, and stash them in a button box. Say to yourself, "Oh, these will look okay, and no one notices buttons anyway." Pull them out 4 years later when you're too lazy to go to the store, slap them on. Use ones that are too small. Who needs modesty anyway! Or use ones that are too large. It's a "statement".
  • Pocket Size and Placement: You know your bum is small, firm and tight, right? So who cares about the size of your rear pockets. You don't have to look at them. Slap some on there that are the size of your head. And put them at the outer sides. They won't make your 37 inch hips look about 10 inches wider!
  • Interfacing: Pick up the pre-wrapped crap. After all, no one's going to see it. It's on the inside, right? (Ed. note: my favorite interfacing comes from Sew Exciting Fashion Sewing Supply. NAYY, just a very happy customer)
  • Trims: Where to find the best, largest selection of trims in most chain fabric stores? Why, the home dec department, of course! Indulge in your passion for rayon passementerie. Even better, trim an outfit with it! True story. I once sat next to a lady who was wearing the most gorgeous jacket. It was trimmed with the exact same trim as the couch on which we were seated. And I remember a Chanel style jacket that I made back in the 80s. It was made from a gorgeous green raw silk. I trimmed it with a (to me) über fabulous rayon trim. I was da bomb. Then one day I caught sight of myself in the mirror and I realized it was just so wrong! The jacket went to Goodwill the next week. You'll amazed at how cheap trims (and I don't mean the website) can destroy the look of a garment
  • Pressing: Press a garment while you're sewing? Why? Just wait until it's done, then iron the whole thing! I think I've said enough on this subject.
  • Checking your lengths: Don't worry about matching the lengths of CF button bands or collar stands. No one ever looks at those, right? This is a cardinal sin in my book. Having had several blouses whose button placket extends below the buttonhole placket, I can honestly say that, had I taken the (max) five minutes during construction to check the lengths, the results would have been much better.
  • Fabric recommendations? Pfeh, I don't need them! So what if this pattern recommends a velvet or soft faille? I think it will look smashing in a duchesse satin.
  • Read the directions: Hah! I'm an "advanced" sewer. I don't need no stinkin' directions! Oh. This pattern calls for 1/4 inch SAs. Oops.
I'm sure that with a little more thought I can come up with lots of other great examples of ways to spectacularly screw up a project. Trust me, I've done every single one.

Happy sewing!

24 comments:

stitchstitch said...

Make a muslin? Why would I need to do that? My measurements match the size on the envelope, it's guaranteed to fit!

Yeah, learned the hard way on that one...

EnglishDaffodil said...

Ann, may I ask what, in your opinion, makes a good (or bad) interfacing? I've only ever used Pellon from JoAnn and so far have had no problems with it. I'm curious whether I'm missing out on something!

cidell said...

Having just about ruined a lovely silk project with cheap interfacing, I too must agree with that one.

Rose said...

Ditto the question from EnglishDaffodil--how can you tell that cheap interfacing has been used? Or to flip the question, what sort of difference does 'excellent' interfacing make? I want to know what I'm missing from my sewing toolbox. I also want to know how you are spotting it on web-pictures etc (what's giving it away? :)

Lori said...

How about sewing on patch pockets and not making sure they are even on each side of the garment? Or the same distance from the hem.
Great list and Pam's interfacing is wonderful.

Lindsay T said...

Yes, yes, yes to quality interfacing. I learned that one just a few months ago. If I can't get to the city to buy the professional grade then I order from Sew Exciting. It makes a difference!!!

And OMG what you said about trims. I feel really spoiled to be able to buy the good stuff in NYC, but you can call up M&J Trimmings, tell them what you want and they'll send swatches. Or go online. You don't have to resort to the junk in the home dec department.

Gorgeous Things said...

Here's my take on cheap interfacing and what constitutes such:

Non-woven - Avoid, avoid, avoid! Unless you are making handbags or crafts, always use woven interfacings.

Glue - I avoid the types of interfacings with dots at all costs. I find that, regardless of how much you pay for it, it bubbles after several months. Use interfacing where the glue is sprayed on evenly over the surface.

I think I'll ask Pam to chime in here. She KNOWS interfacing.

Cennetta said...

Oh boy! I'm guilty of several things on this list: buttons, pressing, interfacing, instructions.., oh my!

cidell said...

And the stuff with the dots falls off when you pretreat the interfacing. Ask me how I know.

Nikki said...

This is getting emailed to my mom.

Mardel said...

Great post! You had me smiling and laughing and thinking of my sewing history and many of my "teachers" along the way. Live and learn, and hopefully we can all laugh about it later on.

Marji said...

oh yeah, esp on the interfacing one. In fact, before I throw them away, I should take a picture of the linen shorts that I made in February. I was in a real hurry, so used whatever it was in that drawer that I have stuffed full of old and odd remnant bits of interfacing. I used a bit of non-woven fusible in the waistband, and didn't even use it on the facing side, I used it on the public side. It's a mess of bubbles. I'll email it and you can use it for the shining example of what not to do, no matter what your hurry is.

Karla said...

Cr@p. I stopped at Walmart tonight and threw 2 cards of buttons in the cart because "it's just a casual cotton blouse." Go ahead and shoot me. Another way to ruin a garment: settle for the closest color thread you have because it's 11:30 pm. Make it an even more exciting choice by failing to check thread length and tension. For a real designer touch, vary the stitch length when you topstitch different parts of the garment. Shoot me again. Please.

Karen said...

Oh, I resemble these remarks. I do. The only one I'm not totally guilty of is the home dec trim sin, but that's only because the home dec store where I used to shop charged such obscene amounts for trim that I always resisted. It wasn't taste; it was cheapness.

I just finally threw in the towel on cheap interfacing. It goes wrong in proportion to how good your fabric is. Ask me how I know.

/anne... said...

I refused to let DD take sewing classes in high school. One day she dropped something off to the teacher, and overheard her tell the students not to bother ironing a garment until it was completely finished.

After that, she understood.

Gigi said...

Thanks for the laughs! I too have been guilty of a few of these over the years. And, in my opinion, Pellon is for buying and selling not for using.

Pamela Erny said...

Hi Ann...and everyone.

Yes, I *do* know interfacing...because...I have (literally) thousands of yards milled to meet my own professional "picky" standards.

Seriously...as a shirtmaker and professional tailor by profession...I finally got SO fed-up with crappy interfacing, that I decided to have my own "brand" custom made. Very high quality interfacing with fusible resin that actually fuses, stays fused, doesn't bubble, doesn't interfere with the hand of fabrics...and interfacing that is WIDE enough so that it is an excellent value.

I visited mills, consulted with textile chemists, sourced the very best base (substrate) fabrics...and after many months of testing, launched my "Pro Series" line of interfacing three years ago.

It has been a big hit, and we now ship 1000's of yards of interfacing a year all over the world! Complete with printed detailed instructions sent with every order.

C'mon over and see what we've got to offer at Sew Exciting-Fashion Sewing Supply ,perhaps join the mailing list. Oh yeah, swatches are available...large pieces you can test on many fabrics.

Pattern Review has excellent reviews of my interfacing...search "interfacing"...and they should show up!

Enough commenting...off to fill interfacing orders....

~Pam
"Fabulous Fabrics deserve Fabulous Interfacing!"

Gorgeous Things said...

Thanks Pam!

I did ask Pam to comment, and I agree with what she says - great interfacing makes all the difference in the results. Give hers a shot. NAYY, but I've been really pleased.

kbenco said...

I am teaching my daughters to sew. I am hoping they will learn from all my mistakes, and I have made all of them, but I think they will need to make their own before doing it the right way sinks in! (They must take after me..I think my last sewing mistake was this evening, I am sure that thread almost matches). I love your list, thanks for the rueful laugh.

phyllis said...

AND - I msut give Els credit for this one: never follow the buttonhole placement from the pattern! They *always* advise to place them too far from the edge. Look at your RTW: the standard is about 3/8 of an inch for a jacket and sometimes 1/4 inch for a blouse. A 1/2 inch is too much.

Martha said...

Oh I so agree with so many. And have committed some of these sins myself through the years. Thank goodness we can always continue to learn. I have used a woven interfacing from Germany. I sew mainly heirloom garments for children. I will give Pam's a try though.

Pressing, my pet peeve. You can spot one a mile away.

Lory said...

The one list item that had me a little puzzled was the fabric recommendation. I normally follow the fabric that's said can be used for any single garment. However, I've been reading through some of my past magazines (like Sew News) and they seem to be advocating against that very same thing. I think they worded it as "take a risk, make sewing fun".

But I guess it also goes back to having common sense. One particular fabric may simply not go with the style and cut of a garment no matter how adventurous someone can feel. So rather than ruin the fabric, and get utterly frustrated, it might help to read the envelope and figure out what fabric would work best.

P.S. I laughed a lot when you mentioned making pockets the size of a person's head, lol.

Hugs,
Lory

bbitce said...

That was too funny! But where were you with this list 15 years ago when I first got the bright idea to sew all my own clothes? I ruined some nice stuff back then...LOL

Rose said...

Thank you for the explanations regarding interfacing. It's the one thing on your list that I use (not frequently, though). I don't put buttons, pockets, or trim on my garments, so I'm unexperienced with those items on the list. After I saw one of your blog posts on pressing (or *not* pressing :) ), I do press seams after sewing them. I do pay attention to fabric recommendations and suggestions, and I try to walk the pattern lines before cutting stuff out. The interfacing item had me baffled, so I appreciate everyone's input. Cheers and thanks, Rose <--gonna work on getting rid of 'tiny bubbles'