When working with cashmere (this is 100% cashmere, without any wool in it), you need to treat it very carefully. It sews up like a dream, but it is really easy to press it to death. Cashmere will have a tendency to leave impressions at the seamline, and it shines very easily. But with a bit of care, a light touch, and a lot of steam, it yields beautiful results.
Use a Press Cloth
When pressing cashmere, make sure you use a press cloth. I prefer silk organza. I use a dry iron, and I mist the press cloth lightly with water before applying the iron.
When pressing, use very little pressure on your fabric. Treat cashmere like a napped fabric. Don't press down hard or you'll leave iron and/or seam impressions.
Point Press Seam Allowances
Point pressing simply means that you use only the point of your iron to press an area. This is also sometimes called "couture pressing". The reason to do this is to keep from leaving indentations.
I don't know if it's very clear from this picture, but the iron is angled slightly so only the point of the iron actually touches the fabric/press cloth. Use lots of steam to set your pressing.
Clip Like it was Coupons
The main design feature of this coat is a gracefully curved neckline that stands away from the body. To make sure that your neckline stands the way you want, clip copiously along the curve before pressing the seam open.
Understitch the Lining
The lining in the sleeves and skirt of this coat comes right to the edge. There is no facing. The view that I am making is topstitched, but to make sure that the lining stays in place, I recommend that you understitch the lining close to the hem before topstitching in place. This will ensure you don't have any "peep out" of your lining at the hems or edges of your coat. Here you can see the topstitching on the outside of the sleeves and the understitching as well as the topstitching on the inside.
There's lots more to be done to finish the coat, and I'll post as I go. In the meantime, I'm tired, so I'm off to sleep. Good night and happy sewing!
9 comments:
I don't know anything about your coat but I LOVE that lining.
Great tips Ann! I've never worked with 100% cashmere before and I didn't know about the "couture pressing". I can't wait to see your coat. That fabric is TDF!
Beautiful coat, and I love the lining! Great tips, too, I'll have to keep them in mind if I ever make another coat.
BetsyV
Great tips! I also found the nap on mine a particular challenge. This is yummy fabric and I am anxious to see your coat.
Must add silk organza to my fabric shopping list!
Thank you for this valuable information, Ann, I really appreciate it!
Great post! I can't wait to see the rest of that lining - it look luxe and fabulous from here.
Thanks Ann for the great tips! I have the current black cashmere coating on my wish list so I will save this post for future sewing.
Ann, I thought I would add some silk organza to my wish list to make press cloths out of and to add to my stash but I don't see any plain non-hammered, non-embroidered organza on your website.(Wow, that is one heck of a run on sentence!) Will you be adding some to your inventory?
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