Monday, March 22, 2010

Pattern Review - McCalls 6035 Blouse

Pattern Description: From the website - Shirts A, B, C, D have princess seams and button closure; dress A has collar band and short sleeves with cuffs; dresses B, C, D have collar, collar band and below elbow length sleeves; dress B has sleeves with cuffs; dress C has sleeves with turn back cuffs with tabs; dress D has sleeves with drawstrings; separate pattern pieces provided for A/B, C, D cup sizes
No seriously - I copied this from the website, where they call the variations "dress". Someone was asleep at the copy editing desk....

Anyway, I made View B, the version with turned back cuffs.

Sizing: 6-22. The nice thing about this pattern is that it has different pattern pieces for B, C and D cups. I made a 14C

Fabric Used: Striped cotton shirting that I have had in my stash for years. This is a beautiful soft fabric with a very fine weave.

Needle/Notions Used: Universal 60/8, thread, Pro-Weft fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, 1/2 inch pearl finish buttons.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? Mostly good. They do have one squidbrained section. They have you sew the sleeve with the seam allowances on the wrong side until you get to the cuff. Then they have you clip to the stitching line, and sew the rest of the way with the SAs toward the right side of the garment. You then turn the cuffs up so the SAs are hidden. Instead, I sewed them like you would sew a regular pant cuff.

Construction Notes: I interfaced the CF facings (you can see them here in my blog post about No Bubble Interfacing). I also found that, whether it was my sewing machine needing tension adjustment, the sharpness of the curves for the C cup version, the tight weave of the fabric, or a combination of the above, it was impossible to get the front princess seams to sew without some puckering at the bust. It's less noticeable on me than it is on Shelley, since I fill the top out better than she does. I may change the princess lines from armhole to shoulder and try it again. I ripped out the princess seams twice, hand-basted, pressed the bejeezus out of it (lightly), but still got puckers. Like I say, it may have to do with a combination of factors, and you may not have the same problem.

Any changes? Nope

Likes/Dislikes: Like the lines, like the cuffs, like the fact that they do the FBA for me. Another nice thing about the different cup sizes is that larger cup sizes have lower bust points, so I didn't have to make that adjustment either. Thank you McCalls!

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I will do it again. As I say, I'll probably try changing the princess seam and see how that works. I do recommend it. I think it's a good pattern and a real wardrobe staple. I'm wearing it today with jeans, heels and my long red wig!

Conclusion: A real winner. Here it is on Shelley:
 I definitely recommend this one.
Happy sewing!

19 comments:

Erica Bunker said...

This is a great blouse! This pattern is on my list also!

Gertie said...

It's lovely, Ann! Such a beautiful basic. I always admire your sewing.

KID, MD said...

Very cute! I love the fabric. Wen you point them out, I can see the puckery-ness, but otherwise not so much. My last princess seamed top did that to me, but the seams loosened up with the first laundering and they are pucker free now.

The Sewing and Knitting Loft said...

As usual, you did a beautiful job on this. It looks so nice and fresh, great fabric.

Barb

Nancy K said...

It's a pretty blouse, and a definite plus that it comes with multiple cup sizes. I had the same problem with my dd's jacket because she is so slender with a D cup, the armhole princess curve is very pronounced and a shoulder princess has a much gentler curve.

Digs said...

Beautiful blouse!

a little sewing said...

That looks really cute, Ann. So smart of McCalls to make patterns for multiple bust sizes.

gwensews said...

Pretty blouse. I imagine that color looks awesome with red hair! I'm glad to hear a good review of one of the Big 4 patterns, since they get a lot of bad press.

Angela said...

Nice nice blouse! You're work is so amazing and you have such good fabric taste for your own sewing and store! :)

Lori said...

The blouse is so pretty.

Vicki said...

Lovely blouse - very classic.

Carol said...

This colour will go well with the long red or the blonde. It's a lovely colour.

Sue said...

I have just tried my first pattern with multiple bust sizes and now understand why I have too much fabric around my bust normally - lol! I will be looking out for more of these pattterns and I thank you for drawing my attention to this pattern. Your blouse looks gorgeous and I like the turned up cuffs variation.

Bunny said...

Great blouse! I agree. My boobilas don't do as well with an armhole princess either. I found a shoulder princess much more "fittable".
Try sewing your princess seam next time with a bobbin that has been slowly wound. I have found it makes a big difference.

Ann Made Studio said...

Lovely blouse and I love the fabric.

Shari said...

Very pretty blouse. I have this one on my list.

Anonymous said...

I so have to pick this up. Thanks for the review!

amber said...

Great basic in a very pretty color. Lovely work, as always.

Pam Erny said...

Just LOVE it..and the color it TDF!