Image: Amazon.com
I just ordered the second edition of this book, which has some add-ons that look interesting. In the meantime, I've owned this book for 5 years and it is my first line of defense in fitting patterns and muslins. When I get the 2nd edition, I'll review the differences between the two.
Authors: Elizabeth Liechty, Della Pottberg, Judith Rasband
ISBN-10: 0870057758
ISBN-13: 978-0870057755
Book Index/Chapter headings
Part 1 - Theory
1: Using the Elements & Principles of Design
2 - Selecting and Using Equipment
3 - Evaluating the Figure
4 - Selecting Patterns
5 - Learning from the Contents of a Pattern
6 - Recognizing Correct Fit
7 - Learning to Fit a Garment
8 - Methods of Fitting
9 - Methods of Pattern Alteration
10: Personalized Patterns & Slopers
Part 2 - Illustrated Alteration Guide
Hip Area
Legs
Neck
Shoulders
Rib Cage
Arms
PaperBack or HardBound? Paperback
Does this book have clear illustrations or photographs? Yes. The book is chock full of illustrations. In the first half, the Theory section, the illustrations focus on sillhouette, line, body symmetry or asymmetry, measuring, how to recognize distortions, etc. The second half of the book uses copious line drawings to illustrate drag lines on different parts of the body and pattern alterations to address those drag lines.
On a scale of 1-10, how would you rate this book in the must-have category? 10, if fitting is your interest and you want a comprehensive book on different ways to achieve fit.
What I like about this book: There are a few things worth noting about it. It is written in the style of a college textbook. Two of the authors are instructors at BYU in Utah. But it is written in a way that makes this edition useful for home and hobby sewists. There are tons of clear drawings, showing how to make the changes necessary.This edition concentrates on using commercial patterns, rather than a RTW alteration or pattern drafting approach.
They take a holistic approach to fit, too, talking at length about comparing your proportions to those of the pattern, and learning to look beyond the pattern drawing as a way to avoid disappointment in the final garment. How many of us have the proportions of the models or illustrations on the front of patterns? They also discuss color, silhouette, line, ease and other theory staples.
I really like the fact that this book is a "Multi-Method Approach" to pattern alteration. The authors explain how to achieve fit using three comparison fitting methods: pinned pattern, measurement and trial garment or muslin. They go on to talk about different methods for altering patterns: slash, seam and pivot. I like this approach because I have yet to find a single method that works for all pattern adjustments. This gives a good variety, and between the three methods you are likely to find something that works for you.
I also like the second section of the book. Using line drawings and detailed explanation, the authors take you step by step from identifying the causes of drag lines through the pattern alterations you should make to address them. They also take many pains to discuss the order of alterations so that you work on the major fit areas first, then work on other areas. It is a logical, well thought approach. Finally, I like the fact that they discuss over-fitting, and how many of us are tempted to eliminate too much ease in order to achieve a better fit.
One word of caution: This isn't necessarily geared to the beginning sewist. This book assumes some knowledge of construction. But it is definitely worth acquiring and you will get your money's worth from it.
Conclusion This is an excellent reference for any sewing library. It's pricey ($74 list, currently $54 at Amazon). I bought it on a whim at my local Barnes and Noble. It's become my go-to book for any fit questions. So it has been worth every penny in my opinion.
Parting Shot: Mama Turkey and Her Little Drumettes
When I came out of the gym yesterday morning, a wild turkey hen and 8 chicks were pecking about in the grass. It's a little difficult to make out, sorry - I only had my cell phone with me. But mama was digging a little hole for herself and the chicks were running underneath her to get warm. It was really cute! Pass the cranberry sauce...
14 comments:
I like this book too, with the multiple ways to achieve fit and multiple ways to alter. Have you ever seen Judith Rasband in person or her wardrobe cluster videos? Mesmerizing, in a good way. A little dated, but very useful.
Love the turkey family! Here we have Canada Geese, a protected species. They are in NC in abundance, and the little goslings are so cute, then armies of geese all come through and S%^& all over everything. Holy Crap, Batman ;-)
I worked for Judith while she was working on the second edition of this book (after I'd already gone through her Educational Training for the Conselle Institute of Image Management)--she's truly a great woman. She gave me a copy of "Fitting and Pattern Alteration" when I stopped working for her and went back to school full time. It's rare that a day goes by when I DON'T use something I learned from her!
I've used this book for years, to the point that it is falling apart. It is a wonderful book but I agree that I don't think that it is for beginners.
How much is the second edition different and do you think that it is worth buying if you have the first book?
I'm glad you posted this review. I ordered this book a few years ago, but sent it back for a refund. Not because it wasn't a good book, but because I wasn't ready for it yet. At that point, I was married to "pivot and slide." Now that there is another edition, and I'm more serious about fit, I'll probably take another look at it.
Thanks for the review. I'm going to order a copy.
C
I have this book. Love this book. But, I did't know there was another edition and now I am sad!
I will look forward to your review of the second edition. I, too, have the first edition and am anxious to know what the difference is and whether it's worth reordering. I found the first ed. a little scanty on explanation and even somewhat confusing, even though I'm a pretty experienced fitter. Denise (who is really, really glad she's almost entirely vegan).
Thanks for this - sounds great!
I have this book, too, and use it quite often in conjunction with Fabulous Fit by Rasband/Leichty. It is a great book, albeit not for beginners. I should at least see if I can preview the second ed. Reading drag lines is an important skill, and would be better than the trial and error method.
I have the second edition. I love it. I have been sewing for a very long time and this book has taught me so much. I have always had trouble fitting my shoulders. I thought I had broad shoulders but since getting this book I now realize I am the proud owner of forward facing shoulders. This has been such a God send. I made 2 wonderfully fitting jackets since my epiphany.
I am interested to see the difference between the 1st and 2nd edition.
Cute turkeys.
This IS my sewing Bible. It works through so many figure problems, I haven't found one yet that it doesn't solve. Love the variety of solutions that the book suggests. Can't wait to hear your review of this new edition.
I got this book last year after seeing Christina Assorted Notions' copy. It's over my head in many sections, but has such clear guidance that I've held on to it. I have a few alterations that I do plan on trying the next time. Thanks for the update on the new edition!
I think that mama turkey was dust bathing like chickens do
I'll add that I was in Waechter's fine fabrics in Asheville, NC and the previous owner, a very fine sewist, recommended it to me. She had a very nice selection of sewing and fitting books at the time. I have never seen this in a bookstore here on LI. and I used to look for good sewing books all the time.
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