Book Review - Fitting & Pattern Alteration A Multi-method Approach

 

Image: Amazon.com

I just ordered the second edition of this book, which has some add-ons that look interesting. In the meantime, I've owned this book for 5 years and it is my first line of defense in fitting patterns and muslins. When I get the 2nd edition, I'll review the differences between the two.

Authors: Elizabeth Liechty, Della Pottberg, Judith Rasband

ISBN-10: 0870057758
ISBN-13: 978-0870057755

Book Index/Chapter headings
Part 1 - Theory
1: Using the Elements & Principles of Design
2 - Selecting and Using Equipment
3 - Evaluating the Figure
4 - Selecting Patterns
5 - Learning from the Contents of a Pattern
6 - Recognizing Correct Fit
7 - Learning to Fit a Garment
8 - Methods of Fitting
9 - Methods of Pattern Alteration
10: Personalized Patterns & Slopers

Part 2 - Illustrated Alteration Guide
Hip Area
Legs
Neck
Shoulders
Rib Cage
Arms

PaperBack or HardBound? Paperback

Does this book have clear illustrations or photographs? Yes. The book is chock full of illustrations. In the first half, the Theory section, the illustrations focus on sillhouette, line, body symmetry or asymmetry, measuring, how to recognize distortions, etc. The second half of the book uses copious line drawings to illustrate drag lines on different parts of the body and pattern alterations to address those drag lines.

On a scale of 1-10, how would you rate this book in the must-have category? 10, if fitting is your interest and you want a comprehensive book on different ways to achieve fit.

What I like about this book: There are a few things worth noting about it. It is written in the style of a college textbook. Two of the authors are instructors at BYU in Utah. But it is written in a way that makes this edition useful for home and hobby sewists. There are tons of clear drawings, showing how to make the changes necessary.This edition  concentrates on using commercial patterns, rather than a RTW alteration or pattern drafting approach.

They take a holistic approach to fit, too, talking at length about comparing your proportions to those of the pattern, and learning to look beyond the pattern drawing as a way to avoid disappointment in the final garment. How many of us have the proportions of the models or illustrations on the front of patterns? They also discuss color, silhouette, line, ease and other theory staples.

I really like the fact that this book is a "Multi-Method Approach" to pattern alteration. The authors explain how to achieve fit using three comparison fitting methods: pinned pattern, measurement and trial garment or muslin. They go on to talk about different methods for altering patterns: slash, seam and pivot. I like this approach because I have yet to find a single method that works for all pattern adjustments. This gives a good variety, and between the three methods you are likely to find something that works for you.

I also like the second section of the book. Using line drawings and detailed explanation, the authors take you step by step from identifying the causes of drag lines through the pattern alterations you should make to address them. They also take many pains to discuss the order of alterations so that you work on the major fit areas first, then work on other areas. It is a logical, well thought approach. Finally, I like the fact that they discuss over-fitting, and how many of us are tempted to eliminate too much ease in order to achieve a better fit.

One word of caution: This isn't necessarily geared to the beginning sewist. This book assumes some knowledge of construction. But it is definitely worth acquiring and you will get your money's worth from it.

Conclusion This is an excellent reference for any sewing library. It's pricey ($74 list, currently $54 at Amazon). I bought it on a whim at my local Barnes and Noble. It's become my go-to book for any fit questions. So it has been worth every penny in my opinion.

Parting Shot: Mama Turkey and Her Little Drumettes

When I came out of the gym yesterday morning, a wild turkey hen and 8 chicks were pecking about in the grass. It's a little difficult to make out, sorry - I only had my cell phone with me. But mama was digging a little hole for herself and the chicks were running underneath her to get warm. It was really cute! Pass the cranberry sauce...

Book Review:The Art of Couture Sewing

I have been searching for a book to augment my old standby, Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques. When I saw on Fairchild's site last year that this book was scheduled to be published, I pre-bought it at Amazon.com. And I am very glad I did. This is a great book!

Title: The Art of Couture Sewing (Softbound)

Author(s): Zoya Nudelman

Publisher: Fairchild Books

ISBN: 978-1-56367-539-3

Suggested Price: $82.00

Contents:

Preface
Acknowledgments

1. Introduction to Couture
2. The Art of Textiles
3. Uses of Tools and Supplies
4. The Skill of Hand and Machine Stitching
5. Couture Draping Secrets
6. The Secret of Closures
7. The Skill of Hems and Other Edge Finishes
8. The Secret of the Corset
9. The Skill of Fabric Manipulation
10. The Skill of Garment Embellishment
11. The Secret of Tailoring adnd Dressmaking

Glossary
Illustration Credits

First Impressions: This is a college/design school-level textbook. It covers a great many different areas of expertise, all of which apply to couture and other sewing. It's really well illustrated. Each chapter ends with an essay on a different couturier that serves to inspire and illustrate.

A Little More Depth: Wow! What can I say about this book other than that it's a treasure trove of information. I particularly love the sections on handstitching and smocking (Phyllis, this book is so up your alley). They really do a great job of illustrating what the different stitches and techniques look like. The section on corsetry is also really well done. The only chapter that is not up to par with the rest is the one on tailoring. Frankly, that's minor to me. This book is more about the flou, or dressmaking end of couture, rather than the tailleur. I think there is enough material there for another book on couture tailoring.

I also like the fact that this book is a great reference. By that I mean that you can open up to any chapter and start going on the techniques described there. It's not set up as a series of techniques that have prerequisites. For example, if you want to make Mexican Tucks, open to that page and the instructions for it are self contained.

There is only one glaring omission in this book: the author's bio. The only information about Zoya Nudelman is contained on the first page. It only says, "Zoya Nudelman, International Academy of Design, Schaumburg". There is a bio for her at the Fairchild Books website. I hope they will include that in future editions of this book.

Do I Recommend this Book? Yes. This is a great book if you have interest in couture techniques. I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner, but for anyone who wants to make gorgeous garments, this is a must have. It's expensive, but it's worth it.

Parting Shot - Miss Me?
We were on vacation all last week and boy, did I need it! We were in a place where there was next to no internet access and no cell phone coverage. it was GREAT! I highly recommend unplugging for a week. The kids loved it too:
Happy sewing!

Whoof!

That's not a dog barking, that's exhaustion rearing its head. I took a bunch of students and colleagues to New York yesterday for a "field trip". It was a great time! We had a couple of adventures, but more than that, I think everyone had fun. And we were able to meet up with Carolyn and Lindsay T at the end of the day for dinner. As an aside, Jack's Restaurant on 40th looks like a pub grub place, but in fact, has great tapas!

We started at Mood and did the rounds. I'll let them tell you which stores were their favorites. Here's the group at Paron's at the end of the day:

Photo courtesy of LindsayT

Not the best picture, but it was the end of a long day of fabric shopping, and the heavens had just opened and it was pouring out. Today I'm tired!

The other thing that happened yesterday is that my latest library acquisition arrived! Can I tell you how psyched I am to have this book? I'll be reading it every free moment I have. Stay tuned for a review soon!
I'm way behind on work, so I'm off to catch up.

Happy (couture!) sewing!!!!!

Bedside Reading Material and Another Great Site

I had the great pleasure of speaking at length with Julie Cole, a professor at Harper College of Design and at the International Academy of Design and Technology in Chicago about two weeks back. We had a great chat about the current state of sewing, design, fabric procurement, etc. I could talk with her for hours! She mentioned to me that she had recently come out with a new textbook, with Sharon Czachor, about sewing for designers. She suggested that I call Fairchild Publications and request a reviewer's copy of her book, Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. I checked out the Fairchild website and saw that they put you through too many hoops before they'll consider you a reviewer, so I decided to buy it instead. I am so glad I did! This is literally my bedside reading, so I'm only getting through about a chapter per night, but this is one of the best references on sewing out there, whether you are a professional or not. I'll do a full-blown review when I finish it, but I'm utterly impressed with my first skim-through and the full read of the first 6 chapters.

Another professor with whom I had the great pleasure of meeting and talking with is Susan Scafidi. Susan is a tenured professor of law at Fordham University. She teaches a course on Fashion Law, I believe the only one in the US currently. I first met her at Emmett's, and we went to dinner that night. She's a hoot and a fascinating lady. She walked in wearing one of Emmett's coats and Christian Louboutin stilettos. How could you not love this woman? In addition to her work at Fordham, she works with the CFDA and other organizations and writes the blog Counterfeit Chic. She's working on the revised draft legislation to allow copyright protection to designers. We had a lively conversation across the dinner table (I hope we didn't bore our other friends too much), and she actually managed to sway my views somewhat. I'll reserve my final opinion for when the revised legislation is presented and I can read it, but it sounds much more reasonable than the first proposed bill. Do check out her blog. It has all sorts of interesting information!

Happy sewing!

Book Review: John Bates: Fashion Designer

After reviewing The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon, I received this book from the publisher, with a request to review it. I think I may have been given an advanced copy, but the book now is available for sale on Amazon. In the interest of full disclosure, I am not being paid for writing this review, nor am I receiving any kind of compensation. But I did not have to pay for the book; the publisher sent it to me gratis. So that said, here's my review.

Title: John Bates: Fashion Designer (Hardbound)

Author(s): Richard Lester, with Foreword by Marit Allen

Publisher: ACC Editions

ISBN: 978-1-85149-570-2

Suggested Price: $55.00

Contents:

Forward by Marit Allen
A foothold in the business
New materials, new shapes
A defining moment - 1965 and The Avengers
The great hem debate- a new geometry in fashion
Retail Revolution
Producing and marketing a collection
Prints and puritans
1974: John Bates - 'Almost couture ready-to-wear'
Rule Britannia - the international market
Choosing a full stop
The designer in person
Index
Ackowledgements

First Impressions: Pretty fun for a student of fashion. John Bates was at the forefront of British Fashion in the 60s and 70s. This book chronicles his career, which spanned from the late 1950s, when he got his start with Herbert Sidon in London to the early 1980s, when he decided to shutter his design house and devote his attention to other things. It's a pictorial romp across 3 1/2 decades of fashion.

A Little More Depth: I I enjoyed this book. It's a fun coffee table book. It's great for students of fashion who want to study one of the influential designers of London's (and beyond) fashion scene in the 1960s.

Bates got his start with Sidon, but he quickly transitioned from a sketcher at that house to a designer at the house Jean Varon. There he made a name for himself in the British press, with designs that were accessible to working women as well as well-heeled ladies. He really took off in the 60s, and it is fun to see the looks he came up with. One of his innovations was using unusual textiles (PVC, anyone?) in new ways. He was a maverick in textile/design combinations. This was to continue throughout his career, as he would use new textiles as they became available. He also was a champion of what then were pretty scandalous, skin baring designs - lots of mesh inserts. I seem to recall my mother tut-tutting about these kinds of designs when I was a kid. He was the forerunner of Tom Ford at Gucci. In fact, several of his designs could walk off the page and down the runways today.

Bates really hit it out of the park, though, when he designed outfits for Diana Rigg to wear in her role as Emma Peel in The Avengers. The leather catsuits, the graphic furs, the minidresses with tights ("so that Emma Peel could fight in her dress if necessary"). These put him right up there with the top designers of the day.

The book follows his trajectory through the sixties, during which time he was firmly on trend with such things as the mini dress (Twiggy and Penelope Tree feature prominently in the fashion photgraphs), scandalous pantsuits, midis, maxis, capes and cutouts. His designs reflected the zeitgeist of the time, and he seemed to be always right on top of the latest.

One of the things I found very interesting is that Bates designed collections that appealed to numerous consumers. He had lines that appealed to working "girls" (Jean Varon) and that were priced accordingly. He also worked with luxury manufacturers, eventually presenting his own line to a wealthier clientele that wanted the same sharp silhouettes, but in luxe fabrics. During the 70s, Bates also embraced new textiles and lots of big, bright prints. His looks presage many of the silhouettes that Saint Laurent would capitalize on in later couture collections. And there is a picture on page 108 that from the back is a direct antecedent of Vogue 1029 by Michael Kors.

Bates had a phenomenally successful career, and while much of the book is devoted to his designs of the 60s, it's a fun survey of styles across the latter half of the 20th century. Toward the end of his career he did some work on film and theater costumes, and the last chapter of the book is a series of essays (you might actually call them love letters) about Bates and his clothes by clients, employees and fashion editors. It's a fun touch in a fun book.

For me, the only down side to this book was the writing. It was a bit of a slog at times, but I think this is meant to be more of a coffee table book, not a fashion text. The writing style can be a bit stiff.

Do I Recommend this Book? Yes. It's a great survey of a designer's career. If you are a student of 60s and 70s fashion, this is a great pictorial reference. You won't learn anything earth shattering from this book. But it is a fun read.

This book has a suggested price of $55, but it's available for less than that at Amazon and Barnes & Noble. If you are a fan of the 60s, Bates, or The Avengers fashions, it might be worth treating yourself!


Happy sewing!

A Couple of Things

I spent yesterday at DSis' helping put together Ikea cabinets, so I haven't done much work on the LBD. But today, Sewing Diva Phyllis is coming over and we're going to the studio to spend the afternoon sewing, so I'm hoping to make progress.

Thanks to the "fun" events of last week, I never got to congratulate the Patriots on a fantastic season. You may not have liked them last year (face it, even some of us were sick of them by the playoffs, and the hype was so annoying, even to me), but you had to admire them this year. With Brady knocked out 7 minutes into the season, losing Harrison, Bruschi and countless others, and 24 starterless games, Matt Cassell, Bill Belichick and the rest of the team pulled a season that no one would have forseen. Yes, it sucks that they didn't make the playoff (Stoopid Jets, later much Man-genius), but they played with the kind of heart that we hadn't seen for the last few years. Now that Indy has been knocked out, I can root for the Giants with impunity. Don't be surprised! The Giants were New England's team before the NFL expansion. Never the Jets - always the Giants.

I got an advanced copy of what looks to be a really fun book John Bates: Fashion Designer. It's available now, and I'll review it as soon as I finish reading it. John Bates is probably best known for being the designer of Emma Peel's fashions on the 1960s TV series, "The Avengers".

So I have lots to do. I'll keep you posted on my progress with the dress. I think I'll make a muslin today and ask Phyllis to help me fit it.

Happy sewing!

Book Review: The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon

I received an advance copy of this book from the publisher. They had asked me if I would review it for them. I had planned to ask DH for this book for Christmas (he always gives me a book on fashion or sewing), but I'll have to suggest something different. Now, in the spirit of full disclosure, I am not being paid for writing this review, nor am I receiving any kind of compensation. But I did not have to pay for the book; the publisher sent it to me gratis. Now that the disclaimers are out of the way, let's get on with it, shall we?

Title: The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon (Hardbound)

Author(s): David Sassoon and Sinty Stemp

Publisher: ACC Editions

ISBN: 978-1-85419-575-7

Suggested Price: $75.00

Contents:

Forward by Suzy Menkes
Preface by David Sassoon
Beginnings
Royal College of Art
Belting Along with Bellville
Sign of the Times - Bellville Sassoon Through the Decades
Royals
Queen for a Day - Bellville Brides
Jewels and Balls
Vogue Patterns
New Horizons
Acknowlegements
Index

First Impressions: Eye Candy - total eye candy. This book is chock full of pictures of clothing spanning 5 decades. David Sassoon was hired by Belinda Bellville in 1958. During that time he has created clothes that have adorned celebrities, debutantes and royalty, as well as less lofty folk. This book chronicles his career and many of his clientele. It's very fun to see the evolution of fashion through the years. And the text is written in a conversational, easy to read style.

A Little More Depth: I found this book to be both thoroughly enjoyable and, in some niggling sense, a little frustrating. As I say, the book has tons of pictures of the dresses and those who wear them. The pictures are taken from fashion shoots for various magazines, as well as press photos of famous folk wearing them to galas. Sassoon describes his career through the decades in a fun manner. He's quite generous with credit for his assistants, Belinda Bellville and Lorcan Mullany, the current head designer. It's very fun to see the clothing styles of each decade. Many of his dresses could walk right off the page and down the street today. It's also interesting to see how his designs presaged other collections. You can draw a direct line from some of the designs Sassoon did in the late 60s to Yves Saint Laurent's "Ballet Russes" collection. There's another outfit from the 60s that features a highly structured and embellished bra that foreshadows Jean Paul Gaultier's cone bras of the 80s. His description of the London scene in the 60s really evokes the giddiness of the era.

It's very interesting to see how the 70s evolved. The looks from that decade are far more dated. Though there is one dress on page 89 that I could easily see on Cidell and other latter-day glamour girls. While the fashion isn't as interesting to me, the stories are quite entertaining, notably the story of the theft of his collection from the New York Hilton. That event made headlines around the globe, and it in a perverse way probably helped Bellville Sassoon gain a secure footing in the US. The funny story that came out of it is Sassoon's recounting of his night drowning his sorrows at Studio 54, complete with all the name brand celebrities of the day.

The 80s decade was when Bellville Sassoon really hit it big - Princess Diana was the company's premiere client, and Sassoon designed many, many outfits for her. My goodness - the fashions of the 80s are SO recognizable! Living through them, of course, I thought that we were all da bomb dressing that way. Looking back.... well, um, hmmmm.... The 90s saw a (very slightly) more restrained look, and the aughts seem to continue that trend.

Sassoon devotes an entire chapter to the British royals. Except for the Queen and Queen Mother, he has dressed every female member of the royal family. He discretely dishes about them all: from Princess Margaret to Diana, with photographs and press clippings. Most of the chapter is devoted to Princess Diana. But I have to say, the one that had me chuckling was the section on Sarah Ferguson, then Duchess of York.

The chapter on bridal fashion is another fascinating journey through time. It's really neat to see the changing styles: from the structured and high-necked 60s to the strapless boned dresses of today, it's an interesting historical perspective. Sassoon also gives some great, mostly anonymous, dishy recounts of adventures with couture Bridezillas. The Jewels and Balls chapter discusses his dresses in the upper social circles at galas and balls.

My favorite chapter, of course, is the chapter on Vogue Patterns. It's interesting to realize that Bellville Sassoon is the longest running partnership of Vogue Patterns. Vogue first started publishing Bellville Sassoon's patterns in 1965 and have been doing so steadily since. Sassoon describes the process of going from a Bellville Sassoon design on the runway to the paper pattern that we all use. It's fascinating, and it's also a little sad, to read the litany of designers who also worked with Vogue: Schiaparelli, Lanvin, Fath, Versace, YSL. Their ranks have dwindled in the Vogue stable. Sigh.... One of the marvelous photo montages in the book is the two-page spread of Bellville Sassoon for Vogue patterns through the years.

The last chapter looks forward, with Lorcan Mullany at the design helm of Bellville Sassoon. Sassoon was presented with a lifetime achievement award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (formerly PACC) last month in Chicago. Reading this book, you get the clear sense that Sassoon, while not finished, is definitely handing the reins over to the next generation. Kind of like Belinda Bellville did with him.

Do I Recommend this Book? Yes. As I said at the beginning, this is definitely great eye candy. I mentioned that I found it a wee bit frustrating. After writing this review, I think I know why. I wish there was more of a look into the making of a Bellville Sassoon garment. I know - it's a fashion book, not a sewing book. But I would love to get a glimpse of the workroom and the people who take the designs from vision to reality. It's a minor point, but it would make the book complete for me.

Conclusion: As I say, this is a fun book to read and the pictures are fun to ogle. At $75 it is a bit steep, but Amazon.com has it available for pre-order at $47.25, and you can get super saver shipping on it. So if you are looking for a fun traverse of latter-twentieth century fashion, as well as some inspiration, this book is definitely worth it!

Tomorrow DS the younger ("Anakin Skywalker" from yesterday's post) has a dance competition. He's dancing at 8-freaking-AM. I still have to finish his costume for that, so I'll bid you all a fond adieu and

Happy sewing!

Reading Materials and Working On...

So here's a funny story. We were driving to Cape Cod two weeks ago for the Oyster Fest. I had work to do, so as DH was driving I got online (cell modems are the best). What was in my mailbox but a note from the publisher of The Glamour of Belleville Sassoon, asking if I would be willing to review the book for them. "Sure," I said, and I offered to purchase the book. They wouldn't let me, and they sent it to me. So I'm reading it now and I'll post a full review in the next day or two. Talk about fun eye candy! More to come...

I'm also working on a competitive dance costume for my DS the younger's teacher. That's going to be quite the trip! It's a Latin outfit, and I have absolutely no. clue. what I'm doing. Feel free to chime in, anyone who has experience. She wants something with an exposed bra (think of Edyta's outfits on Dancing with the Stars) that I'm going to cover with sequinned fabric I got at Spandex House when I was last in New York. Like I say, any and all pointers welcome. I'm flying by the seat of my pants on this one.

Speaking of DS the younger and dancing, he's got another competition this Sunday. He's on at 7:30 in the morning. Ugh. The good news is that he'll be done before 10. I made him a vest and his teacher a matching sash for the comp. I'll post a review later, after I get pictures of him in the outfit for the competition.

I need more coffee...
Happy sewing!

Book Review: Sew U Home Stretch

The Official Publishing Information: Sew U Home Stretch: The Built by Wendy Guide to Sewing Knit Fabrics
By Wendy Mullin, Eviana Hartman, Beci Orpin (Illustrator)
Published by Little, Brown & Company, May 2008
ISBN-13: 9780316118378

Background: The other night, I was in the Barnes and Noble in my town. While buying the latest Perseus Jackson book for DS, I saw this book. I picked it up and decided to buy it. I didn't really look through it, other than to scan the contents. I took it home and had a look and started reading it. After a little bit of reading, I was suitably impressed.

Chapter Headings: The book is organized in an easy to follow manner. The chapters include
Supplies You'll Demand: Getting Equipped to Sew Knits
Knits and Bolts: Getting to Know Stretch Fabrics
Pattern Recognition: How to Use Them, How to Change Them Up
By the Slice: Preparation and Cutting
A Stitch in Time: Quick Tips for Sewing Knits
Teeing Off: An 8-Step Program for the World's Easiest T-shirt
The Crewneck: Beyond the Basic Tee
The Raglan: Designing with a Bold Shoulder
Dresses and Skirts: Taking Knits to the Next Level
Recycling: Giving Old Knits a New Lease on Life
The book also includes 3 patterns: Crewneck top, raglan top and dress/skirt

This book is written in an easy to read, conversational style. It's geared toward the novice knit sewer, and it provides clear instructions how to choose, work with and store knit fabrics. The Stitch in Time chapter takes you through equipment, with heavy emphasis on serger techniques. While the authors do give hints for using a regular sewing machine, it's very clear that they're urging the reader to get and use a serger, and possibly even a coverstitch machine, for knits. It also takes you step by step through making a tee. Here they use several variations on construction methods, which really only vary by the methods of finishing edges and necklines.

What I Like About This Book: I really like the writing style. For someone who is a newbie to knits, or a relative newcomer to sewing in general, it's very accessible and reassuring. I also really like all the ideas the authors have for varying the basic patterns. In the section on crewnecks, they have a whole sub-chapter called Built by You Projects, which take the reader through all sorts of fun variations on the basic crew neck, including V-neck, boatneck, elasticized waist and many others. It's great for getting the reader's creative mojo flowing. There are similar projects in the other chapters as well.

The book also includes three very basic patterns, sized from XS to L. I haven't had the chance to sew them up yet. I may try to make one tomorrow after I finish the Burda dress. At that time I'll be able to give feedback on it. One thing to make sure you note if you make these patterns: they use 1/4 inch seam allowances. If you're used to sewing with most "Big 4" home sewing patterns, that is a significant difference.

Dislikes? None, really. I could say that there are a bunch of styles, especially in the dress section, that don't appeal to me, but that's a matter of personal taste. The book is very well written. The examples and illustrations are very clear. The visuals are appealing and the chapter and heading titles are cutely named (and I appreciate that, I can tell you). This is a great book for beginners. I will certainly use it as a reference in my knit sewing classes. I may even look into building a class around it.

Conclusion: As I say, I really like this book. I bought it on a whim, and though I consider myself advanced, and already know pretty much everything they explain, I enjoyed reading it. I would definitely recommend it for my students and other sewers.

Tomorrow, it's back to work on the Burda dress. It's well on its way. But there are a lot of little details that take time. Stay tuned...

Happy sewing!

Friday Miscellany

The jeans are coming along, I promise. The fly is half way inserted. I keep getting interrupted, either by business, by kids or by life in general. I did a post on patch pockets for BeSewStylish today, and that has a picture of the jeans in progress with the pocket on the back. I figure I should have them done this weekend, but first I have to get time away from kids' braces, piano lessons, ballroom dance lessons, karate and football. Yeesh! No wonder I'm exhausted by 9:30 at night. I haven't even tried to stay up to watch the World Series.

I received the other half of my Amazon book order while I was in New York: The catalog from the Victoria and Albert Museum's exhibit,The Golden Age of Couture. Blogger isn't letting me upload pictures right now, but when I can, I'll put a link to it.

We rearranged the office, and now I need to make new curtains for the winter. I have some silk taffeta that's about 15 years old. I think I'll use that and line them with flannel to keep the draft out.

Well, that's about it for now. I'll post more pictures of the jeans as soon as they are done. They are going together quite well, so I'm pleased thus far.

Happy sewing!

Wednesday Miscellaney

I've been doing some reading recently. I ordered a bunch of books from Amazon, and the first two that arrived are

Chanel: Collections and Creations by Daniele Bott. Definitely an inspirational book! I reviewed it on BeSewStylish.com.
I also bought Charles James by Richard Martin. It's a thin tome, but it is filled with gorgeous pictures of dresses by that master of bodily sculpture. My observation about the two designers side-by-side is that, while I love looking at both designers' creations, I would only wear Chanel's.

I also just got Kathleen Fasanella's book, The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing. This is one of those V8 moments kind of books. I wish I had known about it when I was manufacturing It would have saved me a lot of money and headaches. I have only skimmed it, but it looks good so far, and I'll review it later. Definitely a must-read if you are thinking about starting a fashion line! What I have read so far really reminds me of Herman Wouk's book Don't Stop the Carnival. Kathleen has lots of good advice and cautionary tales.

I haven't decided what project is next. Maybe the HotPatterns Jeans Jeanius. We'll see.

Well, that's about all for now.
Happy Sewing!

Pssst! Hey Buddy, Wanna Make A Couture Dress?

Can't you just see some thug saying that in a dark alley? Very noir, very 1950s Bogie and Bacall movie. But it's true! I was perusing some museum websites today, and the Victoria and Albert Museum is running an exhibit on the Golden Age of Couture. I've already pre-ordered The Book from Amazon. I think you can buy it straightaway from the museum, but since the dollar is so low (great article in today's WSJ about that and how it might affect the trade deficit, BTW), I'll wait and get it when Amazon gets their bulk discount.

Anyway, as part of the exhibition, you can download the pattern for that gowachuss dress above! I already did, and I'm going to start studying it. Oh Summerset! This one has your name written all over it!

And for you shoe aficionados in the crowd, there is a Design a Shoe competition which will be judged by that master of foot fabulosity, Jimmy Choo! (The real one, not that evil wench who took over the company)

I tell you, life doesn't get much better than this. If it weren't so expensive, I'd be tempted to hop on a plane and get myself to the V&A!

Happy Sewing!

A Jolly Good Read!

First, if you haven't been over to Gorgeous Fabrics lately, we just implemented a fun new feature: Inspiration Station. It's a randomizer that grabs bunches of swatches and posts them on a page. You can click on each swatch and see the fabric. I like it because it lets you see fabrics you might otherwise miss. And next to it is a random selection of pictures from The Gallery. But who cares what I think - of course I like it, right? What do you think of it?

Now, that said, I'm about to talk about the new Harry Potter book, so if you haven't read it yet, cover your eyes or go look at fabrics!

I finished Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows on Sunday afternoon. Good book! I highly recommend it. I won't give away too many plot points. I still like Prisoner of Azkaban and Goblet of Fire better, but Hallows comes in a close third. As I said to Stacy, it's very Dickensian, but with a high body count. The language is beautiful. It made me cry in several places. First was when Dobby died and Harry buried him. To think that the creature I found so annoying in the movie could bring me to tears! The second was when Fred died. Boy, I never saw that coming. And the third was when Harry was walking through the forest toward his own doom with his parents, Lupin and Sirius. When he asked if it (death) would hurt, I started bawling. I'm getting misty just writing this.

My favorite chapter was The Prince's Tale. It actually made me feel sorry for Snape - I remember wondering in Book 5 if he had a thing for Harry's mom. I thought there were some draggy parts, notably when they were camping out trying to figure out what to do. But hey, you need time for exposition, right? And the last quarter of the book more than made up for any slow patches, and had me completely mesmerized. I am reading it aloud to my sons, so I'm getting a chance to reread and reabsorb some of the plot points that may have escaped me. And I must say that I am really grateful to J.K. Rowling for writing these books. Not only for the pleasure they give me and my family, but for the wonderful fact that Books caused such a cultural phenomenon! As my DH said, "Hey, I'd rather see people dressed up and in line for this than for some stupid Britney Spears concert!" Bravo Ms. Rowling, bravo!

I've done a new fitting shell of my McCalls pattern, and I'll be playing with that today.
Happy sewing!

Book Break!

I went out at lunchtime today and treated myself and my kids to some fun reading. For the boys, I got a TinTin book and an Asterix & Obelix book. I'm only vaguely familiar with TinTin, but Asterix & Obelix crack me up. It is the tale of two ancient Gaulish warriors in the days of Julius Caesar, and the English translations are full of great puns! Fun for adults as well as kids.

But for me, I finally got my hands on Tim Gunn's new book:


I'm going to settle in tonight after I teach my sewing class and read it. I'll review it as soon as I'm done. It looks like a fun read!.

Happy styling!

Book Review - Balenciaga and His Legacy

General Information
Title: Balenciaga and His Legacy
Haute Couture from the Texas Fashion Collection
Author: Myra Walker
Publisher: Yale University Press
ISBN: 0-300-12153-9

Amazon Ordering Information

Every year for Christmas, my husband gives me a book on fashion. This year, I asked for this book. He ordered it, but then got notification that it wasn't slated to be published until mid- to late-January. So imagine his surprise, and mine, when this book arrived in time for Christmas! After presents, while dinner was cooking, I tore into it. This is a book that, like Betty Kirke's Vionnet will give more and more information at each sitting. The book showcases garments and details from over seventy Balenciaga garments with sumptuous photography and well-informed captions. Myra Walker is the director and curator of the Texas Fashion Collection at the University of North Texas. And what a treasure trove she curates! I'll have to find an excuse to visit Dallas to spend time there.

The book is divided into six chapters:
Remembering Balenciaga, a memoir by Hubert de Givenchy
The Impact of Cristobal Balenciaga
Diary of a Collector: Claudia Heard de Osborne
Neiman Marcus: A Fashion Capital
Inside the House of Balenciaga in Paris
The Baleciaga Legacy Endures
There are also a forward, preface, acknowledgments and bibliography as well as a chronology of the House of Balenciaga.

The photography in this book is just stunning. There are photos from magazines and the Neiman Marcus archives, as well as editorial photography by Richard Avedon. The closeups are breathtaking in their clarity and focus on the details. But even more stunning than the photos are the clothes themselves. Balenciaga was truly a visionary and ahead of his time. Many, if not most, of the garments shown in the book could walk right out of the pages and down the street without looking out of place. His bubble dresses presage both LaCroix' poufs of the '80s and today's descendents. His evening gowns would be chic in black tie settings today. There is one black dress, inspired by a priest's casulla that stuns in its simplicity and beauty. And the facing page of the full garment shot gives an up-close detail of the jeweled embellishment that runs along the hem and up one thigh-high slit side seam. He referred to this dress as "A very sexy priest." Yes, indeed. But the beauty of the dress is that its simplicity provides such a wonderful canvas. No overwrought ball skirts, no encusted beading, just masterly design.

There are lots of other dresses, gowns, suits and accessories. I could stare at this book for hours, and I will. In some ways, my favorite chapter is the one on his legacy. In this chapter, there are side-by-side shots of Balenciaga garments and contemporary designers' works that are clearly inspired and influenced by Balenciaga's work.

This is wonderful eye candy, and a must-read for students of fashion. Myra Walkers prose is intelligent and well-thought-out. This one is going to be on my bedside table for a long time.

Happy reading!

Book Review: Fashion - A History from the 18th to the 20th Century

Background:
On Gigi's recommendation, I bought this book from Barnes and Noble a couple of weeks ago. I had eyed this book for quite a while, but its original price (I believe it was around $70) was a deterrent. But it's on sale now! You can Click Here to see it.

Publishers Information:
Full Title:
The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute
Fashion
A History from the 18th to the 20th Century
ISBN-10: 0-7607-8202-4
ISBN-13: 978-0-7607-8202-6

Contents:
Foreword
18th Century
19th Century
20th Century - First Half
20th Century - Second Half
Appendices

Commentary
This book is an encyclopaedic survey of fashions from the late 1500s to the end of the 20th century. It makes me want to fly right over to Japan and spend a week in the Kyoto Fashion Institute. It is loaded with sumptuous photography. The text accompanying the photographs is pretty sparse. Mostly the text is the descriptions of the clothing. From my perspective, it is interesting to see how fashion has sped up since the late 19th century. The styles in the 1600s to the 1800s, while showing distinct evolutionary patterns (ciao, stomachers, helloooo bustles!), changed over longer periods of time. By contrast, the evolution in fashion from the 1890s to present day is head spinningly fast.

Each chapter is written by a different person. Obviously each is a specialist in the fashions of their time period. The book flows beautifully, and while the translation from the Japanese can be awkward at times, it is a fascinating read. The fabric embellishments and underpinnings of the previous centuries get as much play as the styles of dress. The photography and close-ups are just spectacular. The authors highlight the frequent references to Orientalism in fashion. I found it interesting how often the Japonais style reappears, throughout the centuries.The only nit I have to pick with the book is the preponderence of Japanese fashion at the end of the 20th century. I understand this, given the location of the museum, but while they show the minimalist nature of Miyake, Rei Kawukobo and Comme des Garcons, why not mention Helmut Lang? Like I say, it's a minor point, and it isn't a deal breaker.

Conclusion:
This is a book that should be in every fashionista's, designer's or serious sewing enthusiast's collection. It provides endless inspiration and it is fantastic eye candy.

Happy reading!

My Sewing Library - Part Eins

I have a bunch of sewing books that I keep handy. I have a lot more that I keep in the spare bedroom (AKA the cutting room) and reference when needed. I thought it would be fun to share which books I have and hear what other reference books folks find invaluable.

The A List - Books I keep close at hand. These are divided into two groups - technique and inspiration. First up is technique:

Vogue Sewing, 1980 edition. This is my all time favorite sewing reference. The pictures are totally groovy, and the pattern styles are so vintage they're back in. The DVF wrap dress is pictured in this book in all its glory. But when it comes to the nuts and bolts of how to construct clothing. This book has it all. I love it, and I think it should be on every sewer's bookshelf.

Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer. I know that several folks whom I respect don't like Claire Shaeffer, but I find that this book is invaluable. The hand sewing techniques and the interfacing information are particularly useful to me.

Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong. A great all-around reference for patternmaking. I'm not a good patternmaker, at all. But if I need something in a pinch, I look to this book. It is clear and well-illustrated. I keep it in my cutting room/spare bedroom for when I need it.

Terry Fox Fashion Collection. This is one of the best all around references for couture inspiration. I bought mine used on eBay. Supposedly it comes with patterns. My copy didn't, which is probably why it was so cheap, but there are good illustrations, and I can use the ideas in it on other patterns.

Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Shaeffer. This is an encyclopaedic guide to different fabrics, their uses, the technical aspects of sewing them, etc. It's an excellent reference. She's publishing a new revision early next year. This book is definitely worth getting.

Great Sewn Clothes by the Editors of Threads Magazine. I think this book may be out of print. It's a collection of articles from Threads in the late '80s and early '90s. It has some great information on adjusting collars so they lie properly, interfacing, working with wool gabardine. It's an excellent reference.

Fitting and Pattern Alteration Leichty, Pottberg and Rasband. This book illustrates common fitting problems and three methods of solving each: pinned pattern, measurement, and muslin. They show different ways of slashing patterns and muslins to get the fit you want.

Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina. This is a great "desktop reference" for solving common fit problems. I keep this one next to Helen Joseph-Armstrong's book in the cutting area. Great, clear, concise instructions.

Then there are the inspiration books. These have great pictures and carry some interesting historical context in several instances.

Jackie, the Clothes of Camelot by Jay Mulvaney. This is a great retrospective of the clothes that Jackie Kennedy wore during the White House years. I was fortunate to see the exhibit of the same clothing at the Kennedy Museum.

Chanel , the companion book to the Costume Institute exhibit. This was an amazing exhibit, and I was fortunate to see it with my fellow Sewing Divas, Georgene and Phyllis. It was great, and the book is a must-have for anyone who is interested in Chanel's progress through the years. And by Chanel, I mean not only Mlle, but the company as well.

The Art of Haute Couture by Victor Skrebneski. Not much text worth reading, and no construction information. But this book has sumptuous photographs that give you a good feel for the sensuous nature of the fabrics and the clothing. I drool whenever I see the photographs. Skrebneski can photograph silk like no one else.

Vionnet by Betty Kirke. Probably the definitive biography of the couturiere's work. The photographs are stunning, and the book includes scaled down patterns for the garments shown.

Dresses from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales, Christies Auction catalogue. I was less than a year older than Diana, and her clothes held endless fascination for me when she was in her heyday. Much like Marie Antoinette (whose biography I am reading right now), she was defined in the public eye by the clothes she wore, even more than by her deeds. It's interesting to see how dated many of the looks are. But the closeups of beading and embroidery are awe inspiring.

Haute Couture and Our New Clothes by Richard Martin and Harold Koda. These catalogues from the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute have breathtaking photographs and explain the historical significance of the clothing that the Met has acquired through the years. These may be out of print, but I think you can get them on Amazon and eBay still.

I'll share some more of my book collection with you later. In the meantime, happy sewing!