Weekend Pictures

The video of the concert isn't supposed to be ready for about 2 weeks, but DH and DSons took pictures at the concert.

Here's Ryan conducting the chorus


Here's The first song of our set - "I Can't Sit Down". I'm sitting next to Dick Frost, who is a wonderful baritone. I love singing with him, we always have a great time. We weren't singing for this one. But the funny thing is that I was singing along silently with the chorus, to stay warmed up. You don't see it in this picture, but there's one picture where my mouth is closed while my throat is obviously working. You see that a lot with singers.

And MTV videos notwithstanding, singing is not an aesthetically pleasing endeavor if done right. Watch any good singer and you will see that when they open their mouth, they have a lot of stuff going on at the back of their throat that doesn't photograph well. Usually when you see stills of singers, they aren't really singing. Same with videos. You'll see people lipsynching, and keeping their lower jaw set so they don't get a double chin effect. Not so when someone is really singing.

Dick was up next. He sang "I Got Plenty o' Nothing", and nailed it.

The audience just ate it up. What fun!

After that, I sang "Summertime". Interestingly enough, I wasn't nervous at all. I think this was the first time in about 20 years that I didn't have butterflies when I stood up to sing. I was even sitting there while Dick was singing, thinking, "Wow, my mouth isn't drying out like it usually does before a performance. Whazzup with that?" I think it went really well. I love this song, and I can't believe I never performed it in public before.

It was a truly wonderful moment. I've said before that the closest I ever get to a religious experience is when I sing. This was it. Allow me a little navel gazing for a moment. When I sing, I really try to interpret and internalize the text. The music is beautiful, but it's the words that make it communicate. "Summertime" is a lullaby, and when I sing it, I immediately call to mind holding my children and rocking them to sleep or comforting them. I try to float the high notes, not blast them. It makes the music that much more lovely to me, and I hope that comes across in my singing.

Okay, enough navel gazing. The last song was "I'm On My Way". It was a blast. I got to hit the wicked high note at the end, which is always fun. That one I did power through. Fun fun fun!

Here's a better picture of the dress I wore. It's Butterick 4343. I made it 5 years ago for another concert. It's actually a little big these days - yay! It's made from a 4 ply silk, lined with silk habotai. You can't see it, but I did a hand-set embellished zipper with sequins and beads on both sides. It's fabulous and comfortable!

Okay, enough about me. Here's the parting shots from the weekend. Mother's Day was wonderful. One of the things we did was take Hoover to a place we call "Dogtopia". It's a huge field in Lexington that has a cistern where dogs can swim. Hoover loves to jump into the water, so here are some action shots I took:


I cut out another knit top and am about 2/3 of the way through it. I'll review it tomorrow.
Happy sewing!

I'm Joining the Club

Here's a story that may amuse only me. When I was in college, I worked on some computer animations in the computer graphics lab. The computer system we worked on was a big honkin' IBM mainframe, and we worked on these state-of-the-art CRT monitors called AED512's. We thought they were all that and a big bag of chips. And we thought that 3D geometrics flying across the screen with ray traced shading was the coolest thing going. At one point, Glenn, the professor, joked that we were using so much storage that we should start a club called the Terabyte Club.

Well, fast forward to today, when I am expecting my new disk storage device to arrive. It's called a Time Capsule. And guess what? I am just about to join the Terabyte Club. But it's not to store any shiny fongers or flying tetrahedrons. Nope, it's holding family photos, articles I've written for various publications, kids' homework assignment and music libraries. It's really astounding, when you think about it. In less than one generation, we've gone from humongous disk drives that housed a whopping 64MB:

And that cost somewhere in the vicinity of $100,000

To putting a trillion bytes of data on a box this size:

For about $500.

Ain't technology grand? So I'm joining the Terabyte club. Woo hoo! Wave the flag and show your card if you're a member!

Speaking of clubs, and this one is probably more interesting. Today is the Super Triple Secret Sale for Club BMV Members only. All McCalls, Butterick and Vogue patterns are on sale for $4.99 each, but only if you are a Club BMV member. I bought my Ralph Rucci patterns through Club BMV, and they arrived really quickly. I think I'm going to order a bunch of other patterns during the sale today. So I'm off to check it out.

Happy sewing!

Not-so-instant Replay: Deconstructed Skirt

Well, as long as I'm republishing the jacket, I figure I might as well put up the skirt I made to go with it. This pattern is based on Butterick 4614.

Pattern Description: Misses skirt variations. Straight with kick pleats or A-line with godets. I made View C.

Pattern Sizing: 6-24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the envelope No, but that was intentional

How were the instructions? I didn't use them because I changed the pattern and style significantly. Looking at them now, they seem very straightforward.

Likes/Dislikes? I wanted a skirt to go with the jacket I made. I thought a skirt with godets might work well, but I didn't want to use my stash KwikSew pattern. I wanted something with larger godets so it would really highlight the contrast fabric. And I wanted something with a zipped waistline rather than an elastic waist. When I looked through the pattern books, this one jumped out at me.

Fabric: Double faced cotton/lycra.

Any changes to the pattern or design? Lots. Like the jacket, I wanted this to be deconstructed, so I changed a ton. First, I wanted to have seams inset with the contrast (yellow) side of the fabric:

So I changed the godet pattern to add a long strip of fabric coming from the top of the triangle. You can see the resulting godet here:


Next I traced the pattern pieces onto and machine basted the side seam allowances. Then I cut the pattern at the seam lines. To construct it, I butted the raw edges of the sides together, centering them over the godet/seam insert and sewed 1/4" away from the raw edges. You can see the inside here:


I also eliminated the waistband facing and used petersham ribbon for a facing, stitching it 5/8" from the top. I trimmed the seam allowance to 1/4".

Finally, I stitched along the hemline and trimmed the hem about 1/4" away so the fabric will ravel in the wash.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will sew it again, more conventionally next time. I would recommend this pattern. It goes together easily and it is very au courant.

Conclusion Here is a picture of the skirt with the jacket:

It will get much softer as it gets washed. I'm very happy with how this turned out.

Happy Sewing!

Butterick 5078 - Second Verse, Same as the First!

Here's the second take on Butterick 5078. I made this version from SLN871, which alas, sold out at Gorgeous Fabrics right away. When I made this version, I went down a size. The size 12 definitely fits me better. I eliminated the back ruching, as well:

As you can see, it looks far less fluffy without the back ruching. And the effect of going from a smooth back to a ruched front is pretty, um, seamless. It's not jarring as I thought it might be.

This one will be my Christmas Eve Singing dress, I think.

Happy sewing!

Pattern Review - Butterick 5078

Okay! I got some sewing done for moi. I liked this dress a lot, and decided the other day to make it. I have a recital coming up next Monday, and I want a dress for it, so I figured I'd take this for a test run. I'm glad I did. Read on...

Pattern Description: From the Butterick website, "MISSES’ DRESSES: Dresses A, B in two lengths are pullover with bias front bodice, cowl neckline, gathered midriff, flared skirt and three-quarter length sleeves. A: below mid-knee length. B: mid-calf length." I made View B.

Sizing: 8-24. I made a 14.

How'd it look compared to the pattern envelope? Pretty close. It's difficult to see the details on the photo from the pattern envelope. But it looks like the line drawing. If only I looked like the line drawing!

Likes/Dislikes? This dress looks very much like a Nally&Millie dress I had back a couple of years ago. It's very flattering to many figure types. The ruched waistline hides a multitude of sins, and is good for figures of many ages. I'm not as crazy about the ruching at the back.

How were the instructions? They were okay. It's really a simple dress to make. There are some changes that I made, and others that I will make the next time. If you follow the instructions as printed, you'll wind up with a perfectly good result.

Any issues (good or bad)? It's not a huge issue, but it is worth noting that this pattern runs big. I made a 14, but the next time I would go down to a 12, possibly a 10. Now, I have been shaping up lately, but I haven't lost that much weight! The neckline on this is also wider than I expected it to be. I need to add lingerie stays, and I have very wide, straight shoulders. If you have narrow shoulders, you will need to to a muslin of at least the bodice to make sure it doesn't slide off.

Fabric Used: An absolutely beautiful modal rayon jersey that I have had in my stash for about 2 years. It's so soft and comfortable, it's like wearing pajamas.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: FBA. Also, my original Nally&Millie dress had narrow-overlocked hems, so I used those here, too.


Oh, I almost forgot to add. They tell you to sew the bodice side seams and attach the bodice to the skirt, then ease in the sleeves. I have to tell you, with knits, this drives me crazy. In almost every case, including this one, you can sew the sleeves in at the armscye before sewing up the side seams. That's what I did here. It was much easier than the way the instructions would have you do it.

Any Changes if You Make it Again? The way this is constructed, you sew a ruched midriff band onto an inner band (they call it the corselette). To do this, they have you sew the side seams, then gather the midriff band at the side seams and secure the gathering stitches. In the next iteration, I'll use a length of clear elastic and gather the ruched band onto that. I think that will work better.

Also, as I mentioned above, I wasn't that wild about the ruching in the back. To me it looks like high-hip fluff. For the next version, I'll re-draft the pattern back to eliminate the ruching and make a single piece of the back bodice and back corselette. Here's what the back looks like:


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it? I am going to make it again. For my recital, I'm going to make it from This Paisley Knit. I do recommend it, but make sure the bodice fits the way you want it to, and consider if you are doing yourself a favor by putting ruching at your back waist. It's good for some folks, but not for everyone.

Here's the finished dress front:


Conclusion: Overall a good design. It's flattering to a number of figures. Do make a test version first to check sizing and the shoulder fit.

Happy Sewing!

Next Up, another Dress

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. We spent it with my sister, and last night we had our post Turkey-day get together with my best friend and her family. Today is freezing cold in Boston, so DH and the boys put up a bunch of Christmas lights. Now everyone is inside listening to Eric Idle singing 'Always Look on the Bright Side of Life'. Yes, life doesn't completely stink.

So, didja miss me? My god, I have been so flat out it hasn't been funny. It hasn't been much fun, either. But be on the lookout for an article in the next issue of SewStylish Magazine. I wrote a post for BeSewStylish.com, and I just delivered a big job for a private client. We spent last weekend at a completely over-the-top Bar Mitzvah in New York (at the Rainbow Room atop Rockerfeller Center) that would require about four blog posts to adequately describe. We got to see how the Other Half lives. It was a blast, and DH came up with a new game: Crazy Relatives Bingo.

So now? It's Me Time!

Well, I also have to make DS the younger a new bathrobe, but I'm going to make myself a dress first. And the dress I'm going to make is this one from Butterick:

It's a Maggy London. I love the cowl neck, and I think it will make a great dress for some singing gigs I have coming up. I've got this Paisley Novelty Knit and this Coordinating Rayon Jersey. I think I may make the ruched waistline from the jersey. I haven't decided yet, though. I have to make one last delivery to a store, but then I'll be spending the rest of the weekend in the cutting room.

Happy sewing!

Spring Butterick Patterns Are Up

I think this is a transitional season, and I don't mean in the retail or garment industry sense. There are very few collections that make a big statement. The last was boho-chic, and it's past. I think the fashion industry is looking for its next big thing, and except for Isabel Toledo's breathtaking collection for Anne Klein, there isn't a real sense of direction.

The pattern companies seem to be stuck in that rut too. Butterick's spring line was just introduced. There are a few good looks, but most of them are, at best, meh, and at worst, they are just so that side of out of fashion that they have no redeeming qualities.

But let's start with the good...

4978 is a great basic dress that can work well under a jacket for work or in a silk jersey (check out Rosen and Chadick for some beauts) for more dressy occasions.


I don't wear plus-size, but if you do, 5001 looks like a winner. I like the ruching on the side, and I think it will look nice on many women.


5004 is a great Sunday Service hat. I wish to heck that RC women wore hats to church, because I'd have this one on. Manny's Millinery in NYC has everything you need to make this just perfect. Run there before they get swept away by the Manhattan real estate tide!

4974:

is cute, classic, and kind of done to death. But I like the back treatment. MJ Trims, Daytona Trimming (do they have a website?) and Pacific Trims (ditto) will all have the type of trim you want to make this perfect.

4981:
is a good Mother-of-the-Wedding-Party outfit. But be warned. Check out the model. That fabrication makes her look hefty. Lose the Shine and try making it in a silk crepe with the jacket in a hammered taffeta. I don't care what just walked down the runways this week. Too much shine will age anyone. Just look at the model.

4986:

Is a cute twist, if you will, on the ubiquitous twist top. This look may be slightly past prime, but I like the layering with the tank. I think it will serve you well through spring.

Okay, no more Ms. Nice Gal, there are some barkers in here that wouldn't make it past the local 4H dog show....

Is anyone at the pattern companies listening??? Tiered skirts are gone, baby, gone. Think "Poncho" gone! Remove them from your fashion lexicon and don't let them darken your closet for the next seven or eight years.


4977 looks pretty good on the illustration. But take a good hard look at the garment on the model. She probably wears a size 4, and is 6 feet tall. This makes her look zaftig. Just think what it will do to the average woman. Avoid!


I am SO glad they labeled this "goth costume". But let's face it. That was an afterthought. This isn't a costume at all. Someone in editorial with some fashion sense just happened to catch it as the file went to print and slapped the label on so they wouldn't get laughed out of the room. Big time avoid. So very 3 seasons ago.

Well, that's all for tonight. Keep an eye out later. The accessories market happened rather quietly recently. It might be worth a look...

Happy sewing!

Did I Say "Easy"? - FBA on an Overlay

A direct quote from me on Stitchers Guild. "Next up? Something easy!"
Riiiiiiiiiiight,.... My next project, which actually is quite easy in the abstract, is Butterick 4920, a blouson top and dress, with an underlayer that is a camisole and a bloused overlay.


I am trying desperately to rid myself of stash fabric that I have bought, and I thought I would give this pattern a go. But first, I had to make a few adjustments to the pattern. I do a FBA on almost everything, and this is no exception. FBA is a straightforward adjustment, and there are lots of good tutorials for doing one out on the web. I'm going to assume you have a basic knowledge of an FBA and show you my variation, which is to adjust for a non-standard overlay piece.

First, transfer all markings to the overlay piece.
The first thing you need to do is mark the bust point on your overlay. To do this, place the overlay on top of the underlayer, lining up the side seams and armscye. Trace the bust point onto the overlay.

Mark the Underlayer, then the overlay
Because this piece has a closely fitted underlayer, I first made all my standard adjustments on the front underlayer piece. In my case, I lowered the bust point first, before adjusting the cup size. I did that step on the underlayer, then I put the overlay on top, transferred all markings and made the same change.



After that, I marked my underlayer with all the standard cutting lines for the FBA, using heavy pencil. You can do it with a sharpie, but it will bleed through to your cutting table if you're using the standard Big 4 weight tissue paper. Once again, lay your overlay on top of the underlayer, aligning the side and armhole seams, and trace those markings onto your overlay piece. You can then proceed to make all your cuts and do your adjustments. Here's the side-by-side result of the adjustments I made. The underlayer is on the left, the overlay on the right:


These steps are relatively easy to accomplish. The most important thing to figure out before you start is where the overlay attaches to the supporting under-piece. That is where you have to line up your pieces before making your marks and cuts on the overlay. In most, but not all, cases this will be the side seam and armhole.

I decided to make the underlay from some stretch lace that I had in my stash. The lace was in 14 inch galloons, which necessitated piecing. To do that, I traced off the original pattern and cut it into three pieces, a bottom, middle and top, adding seam allowances where appropriate:


I didn't add them everywhere because I wanted to use the scalloped edges of the galloons as decorative edges. You can see the pieces basted together here:


Honestly, it didn't take that long to do. If you know how to do a FBA, then it's quite straightforward to add it to an overlay piece, even one that doesn't exactly map onto your underlay. I'd say that this probably added about an hour to an hour and a half to the sewing time, and that was partly because I was interrupted a few times. Here's a picture of the finished top:


But you know the kicker? After all that, I don't know if I like it. I think it makes me look pregnant. Oh well, live and learn....

Happy sewing!

Winter Patterns from Various Companies

I'm between projects, and I don't want to start in on the window seat cushion until Monday when I have some time to devote to it, so I started scanning the pattern company websites for inspiration, and I came across a couple that caught my eye.

Kwik Sew
I'm not a huge fan of Kwik Sew. They're okay, but I find the designs to be kind of 'meh'. But this dress, 3472:
struck me as a winner. It's a classic style that you will have for years. I would make it from a lightweight wool jersey or even better, silk jersey. They recommend matte jersey for it, and while I really like matte jersey for some things, I think the weight of the skirt would pull the whole thing down without a lot of internal structure. And that would defeat the purpose.

This pattern, 3474:


looks really, really boring in the drawing. But the picture of the blouse on the model is compelling. I would definitely Laura-Bennett this up, using a stretch silk in black for the body of the blouse and a white silk gazar or faille for the ruffled collar. I haven't seen the pattern yet, so I can't say for sure, but judging from these pictures, I might also make the ruffle more dense to really play it up.

3463:
Aaaauuuugggghhhhh! Bad Pat Benatar flashback!

Seriously, I considered leggings for about, oh, one minute. Then November came to Boston, and any thought of leaving my ankles facing the elements disappeared like the last fleeting days of Indian Summer. Just say no!

Butterick
Butterick is another pattern company that doesn't really do a lot for me. Though I will admit that they have good basics. This dress, 4914:
is versatile. You can make this from a silk for evening or a jersey for day, and put a jacket over it for work. Yes, it's like something you can find at Macy's. But it's also like something you can find at Neiman Marcus - it depends on your fabrication. Have some fun with it. That's why you sew, isn't it?

This pattern, 4920: has some interesting possibilities. I'm not sure if I like the dress, though I will sleep on it before I make a decision. It's the kind of thing that can grow on me. I do like the top, but I would put sleeves on it and wear it over skinny jeans.

This season, they also added some pretty cool vintage patterns. This one, 4918:

Is really lovely. They recommend shantung, taffeta and satin. I would add silk gazar, or even a double layered skirt with something with good body underneath and chiffon or silk tulle on top. Think Christian Dior's New Look:
I recommend making an inner corselet to hold it up, otherwise it will too easily slide down and you'll be doing the pull-up every time you move or dance. Kenneth King's Birth of a Bustier and Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture both have excellent instructions.

I am really drawn to this pattern, 4819:

But I have to ask - is it me, or does the illustration look like the model is checking for, um, well, let's be blunt, body odor? Anyone here ever see "A Fish Called Wanda"? Remember how Otto would always smell his armpit before attempting to kill someone? Yah, that's what I mean.

Well, that's what I think for the evening. It's time to call it a weekend and watch "Dr. Who" with the kids.

Happy sewing!