Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Saucy Secretary Part 2 - Finished Look

Ta daa! The Saucy Secretary is finished! The top, which I previously reviewed Here, is made from Kwik Sew 3093. The skirt is made from HotPatterns 24/7 Pencil Skirt:


I did a muslin before and reviewed it in This Post. That time I ran it up primarily for fitting and general construction. This time I did a few things differently. The biggest difference was that I lined the skirt.

Fabric: For the shell, I used a (sold out, sorry) "Just Gowachuss Wool Tweed" in heathered purples from Gorgeous Fabrics.

I lined it with a paisley purple and brown georgette that I have had in my stash for so long, I forget where it came from. I bought it when I was manufacturing accessories, and I have a ton of it. Georgette, as long as it's not crepe georgette, makes a great lining. It's like chiffon, but heavier, and it feels great. It slides beautifully too.

I interfaced the hem with Pro-Weft interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply

Cosntruction Notes: There are a couple of things I did differently from the last version of this skirt. In addition to lining it, I decided to cut the waistband facings from the lining fabric to reduce bulk. I cut the facings a scant 1/8th of an inch shorter than the waistband. This was to ensure that the waistband rolled in towards the facings to eliminate any possibility of facing "peek out" at the top.

I also constructed the skirt slightly differently from the way most directions have you make skirts. I sewed the skirt to the waistband, then I sewed the lining to the facings. I inserted the invisible zipper in the shell, then I machine sewed the lining to the skirt, starting at one side of the zipper, across the top of the waistband facing and finishing at the other side of the zipper, all in one continuous line of stitches. I understitched the facing. To affix the lining and the skirt waistbands, I used the "stitch in the ditch" technique along the seam between the skirt and the band. You can see the results here:


There was only one thing I found odd about this pattern, and that was the lining. HotPatterns has you cut the lining out so you have a large "U" around the back vent.

It's not a bad thing, it's just different from the way most patterns are cut. So you may want to consider getting a good sewing book and cutting your lining in a more traditional fashion. As it is printed, you need to make sure your back seam allowances are finished. But that's a pretty minor nit. Here is a view from the outside:

Conclusion:
I really love this version of the skirt. I highly recommend it. I think it will look fantastic in the cooler weather with my boots and my La Rue Bag. Today actually feels like early fall. The air is nice and crisp. It almost makes me want to wear it!

Happy Sewing!

21 comments:

AuntieAllyn said...

Looks fabulous! And that's the style of skirt that you'll wear for-evah!

Gigi said...

What a beautiful skirt - and I love the lining! You will look drop-dead stunning in this outfit.

Meg said...

Fabulous ensemble. This is the style of skirt I turn to time and again.

Erica Bunker said...

Love that look with the boots!

Little Hunting Creek said...

What a beautiful skirt, and the lining is equally fabulous.

Anonymous said...

That skirt is perfect! I will be ordering that pattern later tonight. You sold it! You should get a commission. ;)

Anonymous said...

Ann, those must be your Arturo Chiang boots in dark chocolate,yes? I think you will need to wear this outfit the next time we do brunch...

Anonymous said...

Great looking skirt! Love your fabric choices and the whole finished "Saucy Secretary" look.

Sheila said...

Fabulous skirt, the ensemble looks fantastic.

Adriana B. said...

Saucy secretary indeed!
Looks very sophisticated and perfectly executed.

rosanne said...

Love the look! Can you describe the difference in Crepe Georgette vs regular georgette?

Dana said...

Beautiful outfit! I'll take about five of those! I just read about that technique for lining a skirt. Any particular reason you used it - faster, more accurate, easier?

Anonymous said...

I love your outfit too! I know I'm showing my ignorance but I never heard of interfacing a hem. Would you mind elaborating? Is it to keep it from stretching? Did you decide to interface it due to the fabric or for some other reason?

Also, I have no sources of good fabric within driving distance - would you consider writing a post showing what fabrics you have for sale that would work well with this pattern? I just placed my first order and can't wait till it gets here!

Thanks for sharing - it helps so much to see things made up to help visualize what will work for my sewing.

Another Suburban Mom said...

That is a stunning combo. I love the skirt. I would buy one of those in half a dozen colors and call it fall/winter 08.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I like the play of paisley lining against the tweed fashion fabric! It is really beautiful!

Summerset said...

Fabulous - I love the way you've constructed the skirt. The lining is perfect, so unique by itself, but a nice little surprise on the inside.

Marji said...

Really nice shape on that skirt, and I love the surprise of the print in the lining.
I'm rather dubious about that lining cutout around the kick pleat though - why do you suppose they did that?

Anonymous said...

Hi Ann,

Can you recommend a good book or article where your method of lining a skirt with a kick pleat is described well?

Thankyou

Prabha

Anonymous said...

Wish you would get more of that wool tweed in!! Love the skirt with that lining! Maybe HP was trying to make the lining easier to do with that U shape cutout.

Anonymous said...

Hmm. don't quite understand how you attached the lining at the zipper, sewing across the top? How does the zipper work then?

Cennetta said...

Well, Pencil me in that saucy secretary skirt! Two snaps up!